Boat Inspection Trip Tips

[sailingdog]

After reading a bit about what people think is or isn't necessary when going to look at a boat... I decided to put together this thread.

Please note: This thread is about going to visit a boat to see if it is worth looking at further. It is not designed to replace a proper survey and sea trial. This type of trip is what you should do to see if it is worth making an offer on a boat and spending the money on a survey and sea trial. IMHO, you really need to have a survey done by a competent surveyor. YMMV.

When you're going to look at a boat, as a possible future purchase, I would make some recommendations about what you should and shouldn't do. I would ask that anyone else chime in with recommendations they have as well. I'll edit this post to add the ones I think are most important.

Basic Inspection Kit

First, put together a kit of tools for your boat visit. The kit should include the following:

• Small Notebook—reporters notebooks or pocket-sized Moleskines are excellent choices for this.
• Pencil—preferably .5mm mechanical for making notes and sketches in notebook
• Small tape recorder—preferably with a lapel mic with windscreen, to record your visit to the boat, as it is often easier to make notes by speaking than writing when looking at a boat
• Digital camera—I prefer the small pocket sized Olympus Stylus SW series, as they are waterproof, shock proof and have a decent lens on them
• Tape Measure—Preferably a 25-30' tape
• Small Flashlight—Preferably LED, like the Gerber Omnivore or Firecracker
• Pocket Multitool—Get a good one, like the Leatherman Surge
• Phenolic Resin Hammer—a small one will do
• Small Magnet—preferably one with a lanyard attachment
• Inspection Mirror—preferably one with a telescoping handle
• Small Volt-Ohm multimeter—preferably digital with a rubber casing
• Moisture Meter—see section below

Additional Supplies:

• Clean White Rags
• Awl
• Waterless Hand Cleaner Wipes
• Spray Cleaner (like Fantastic)
• Burgundy Scotch Brite Pad

The Trip

First Impressions

Now, when you get to the boat, take some photos of the boat as you approach it... Turn on the tape recorder and speak clearly about your first impressions of the boat. Make sure you get your first impressions down. The human brain is a weird thing and often the first impressions are the best ones... and there's usually a reason for them.

Systematically go through the boat from bow to stern, from top to bottom, recording what you find either on the tape recorder or as sketches and notes in the notebook, and document everything with photos using the digital camera if at all possible. If you have specific requirements, use the tape measure to take measurements.

Don't forget to note the make and model of the various equipment and parts aboard the boat. Some pieces of equipment, like specific models of engines and such have known weaknesses and specific problems to be aware of.

The magnet is to be used to check stainless steel hardware. If the magnet sticks, it ain't marine grade stainless. Austenitic stainless, which covers most marine grade stainless steel, is non-magnetic and includes 304 and 316 grades of stainless. The cheaper martensitic stainless is magnetic.

The flashlight and inspection mirror are used to look in nooks, crannies, deep unlit lockers, the bilge, engine compartment, etc. Looking in lockers and such can often tell you a lot about a boat's true condition, since many people will spruce up and clean the interior of a boat for sale, but will often forget to do the same for the less visible spaces. A good example of what you may find is traces of a visible waterline in the higher lockers may indicate that the boat was sunk at some point.

Tapping the deck with the phenolic hammer near stanchion bases may give you an indication if the deck has started to delaminate or has a wet core. Most boats have a cored deck and stanchions are often places where the water intrusion can start due to the loads that they're often subjected to. Caution: If you are not skilled with a phenolic hammer please DO NOT go pounding on an Awlgriped deck!! They are used for TAPPING not pounding.

Most manufacturers do not do a very good job of potting the fasteners or deck area around the stanchions or other deck hardware, especially on older boats, made when the water intrusion problems weren't well understood.

Look for cracks in the gelcoat—most spider cracks are normal and often due to the gelcoat being laid too thickly. Parallel cracks in the gelcoat, which often indicates stressing of the fiberglass there. Star-shaped cracks in the gelcoat are usually the result of an impact.

Look for flat spots in the hull or places where the hull doesn't follow a natural curve. These can often be indicators of previous damage or bad construction. Often, places where the hull isn't following a fair curve are due to bulkheads being improperly glassed to the hull and causing a hard spot—which can cause the laminate to hinge along the hard spot and results in the laminate fatiguing prematurely there.

Check mechanical systems to see if the parts that should move do, and that the parts that shouldn't move don't. If something sticks, like the tiller, and shouldn't—it is probably an indicator of something wrong or about to go wrong. Excessive play is often an indicator of wear and that something may need to be repaired or replaced soon. If a cabin door or cabinet door doesn't open or close smoothly, it may mean the hull and deck have changed shape and causing it to bind—this can often happen if a compression post has started to weaken.

The multimeter can be used to do some quick checks on the electrical system. If you don't know how to use one, take a class at a local vocational/technical school and learn—you need to know how to trouble shoot electrical problems using one if you're going to own a boat.

Go through the boat and open every locker if at all possible. Lift settee cushions. Look in the bilge. Photograph the rig. Get detailed photos of the chainplates, the rudder attachment points, the steering quadrant and other important pieces of equipment.

As for the pocket multitool... you'll figure out why I included it in the kit... they're just too damn useful not to have one around. I carry the Leatherman Surge with me almost 24/7, except when I know I'm going through airport or federal building security. The blades on it are just about long enough to qualify as a felony if carried in a federal facility.

Going Aloft

I generally won't go aloft on a boat that I'm a complete stranger to, unless the rig is vouched for by someone I know and trust. Also, I doubt most owners would let you go up the rig given the liability issues if the rig should fail and you get injured. Finally, many boats are on the hard when up for sale, and going aloft on the hard is a really, really bad idea IMHO.

That is why I recommend taking photos of the rig from the ground. The amount of detail you can pull off of a 8-10 MP image nowadays is astounding, even if the camera only has a fairly short focal length lens.

Moisture Meters by Maine Sail

If you are in the market for a 10k+ vessel do yourself a favor and invest in a moisture meter. It will pay for its self the first time you use it and rule out a boat!!

Surveys run $600+ clams, moisture meters are $169 clams. If you found a boat you really loved but the surveyor came out and found moisture your out $600 if you do your own "checking" you can rule out many boats safely without a survey and with each boat you rule out die to sever moisture the meter costs less and less until it's free! When you are done simply sell it here on Sailnet to another member or keep it which is what I'd suggest!

Please do NOT listen to the neigh Sayers like David Pascoe on this subject. He is a surveyor who DOES NOT want you to own a meter. He uses scare tactics and discuses how "difficult" it is to use one. That is complete BUNK! Using a meter, to a level where you can rule out a boat with severely wet decks, takes about a half hour to learn! More accurate and detailed use takes more time but that is not what you are after in this stage.

Trust me he and his cohorts WANT to survey three or four boats for you before you find one to buy. My buddy Eric surveyed five boats before finding one in salable condition. He spent over 2k in surveys. He could have ruled at least four of these boats out, if not all five, with about a half hours worth of reading and a $300 meter saving $1700.00....

I use an Electrophysics CT33 moisture meter. This is basically the SAME EXACT meter as the $325.00 J.R. Overseas GRP33. The only difference I know of are the graphics on the analog display. As long as you don't mind ordering from a Canadian company you can save HUGE money. The current price for the CT33 is $169.00 plus shipping from Canada. Oh and don't forget to order the calibration block @ $10.00..

So $169.00 - CT33 Moisture Meter
$10.00 - Calibration block
$9.00 - US Shipping
Total $188.00 Delivered

$169.00


Electrophysics CT33 Moisture Meter Ordering Informationn (LINK)

If you want fancier analog graphics $325.00:


As Maine Sail says: "when you DIY the tools are FREE!! There is NO excuse for anyone investing more than 10K in a new boat to NOT own a moisture meter.." I agree with him. Owning the right tools makes almost everything you do easier.

Specific Inspection Areas:

#1 Sails & Canvas - If the sails are on board find the UV cover or luff end of the head sail and scratch the threads with your fingernail. If they fail or break the sails need at a minimum re-stitching. If you can find the head board of the main sail,it sees lots of UV as it's not folded into the sail when flaked do the same here. Do the same for any canvas..

#2 Driveline - On inboard powered boats grab the prop and wiggle it back and forth up and down. If there is any play the cutlass bearing is mostly shot and will need replacement.

#3 Driveline - Inspect the strut, prop shaft (if bronze) and prop for any signs of dezinctification. This will appear as areas of discoloration more pinkish or coppery in color as opposed to the gold hue of bronze. A Scotchbrite pad is a good thing to add to the inspection kit as it will allow you to get down to bare bronze.

#4 Rudder -Grab the rudder and move it from side to side and fore and aft. If there is significant play the bearings or bushings may be past prime.

#5 Rudder - Move the rudder by hand from full port to full starboard. If you feel any difference in resistance it could be a bent shaft or steering gear issues.

#6 Steering - Inspect the entire steering gear assembly and look for excess play or "meat hooks" on the steering cable. Make sure the wheel brake works. A broken wheel brake, or one that does not have adequate locking to prevent you from turning the rudder by hand, means the rudder was allowed to move freely at the dock or mooring. This is BAD and adds to unnecessary premature wear and tear on the entire steering system.

#7 Steering - Inspect the rudder stuffing box. You are looking for signs of drips or leaks. they will usually run from the top of the rudder packing gland down and will be green in color if it has a bronze rudder packing gland.

#8 Rudder - Look for any rust colored drips emanating from the rudder. This is a good sign of water intrusion.

#9 Keel - Look for any signs of water seepage or discoloration stains along the keel to hull joint. Leaking keel joints lead to crevice corrosion of the keel bolts and can be a bad situation.

#10 Keel - Look in the bilge for any signs of un-sealed screw holes, possibly left over from a float switch or bilge pump, with brownish rust stains around them. This could mean the boat has a plywood laminated keel stub that has been moisture saturated. If the stub has wood and it's wet the keel bolts will likely be suffering from a good deal of crevice corosion.

#11 Keel - Look at the keel bolts and make sure they are no circular stress cracks emanating outward from the backing plates. This is another sign of a rotting and compressing keel stub. Solid fiberglass does not compress enough to create circular stress cracks.

#12 Bulkheads - Using a Awl (please be courteous and do this in an inconspicuous area that can not be seen) poke the areas around the chain plates lightly. If the wood is rotten the Awl will sink in. Do the same around the bottoms of the bulkheads where they meet the bilge.

#13 Glassed in Bulkheads - Inspect all tabbing and make sure NONE of it is peeling or broken free from either the hull or the bulkheads. Do your best to look at the entire mating surface and this will usually require the flashlight and inspection mirror. If you notice any discoloration of the wood lightly poke at it with the Awl. Look for any signs of the teak veneer bubbling or lifting. This is always a red flag for moisture in the bulkheads.

#14 Screwed in Bulkheads - Many production boats used bulkheads that are screwed in place. Make sure the screws are entering at a 90 degree angle to the wood. Screw heads that are cocked or off the 90 degree angle, and if there are more than just the occasional one, are a good indication the bulkhead has been over stressed and has moved. Awl same as above and PLEASE be polite about your use of the Awl!

#15 Deck (Under-side) - Do your best to remove anything that will get you to the backing plates of deck hardware. Please do not dismantle the boat! This is only for areas of easy access. If you can unzip a headliner for example, and the zipper does not stick, visually inspect deck penetrations for any signs of "coffee drips". Any brownish drips or brownish colored stains dripping from through-bolted hardware or any holes on the underside of the deck are signs of a seriously deteriorating rotting deck. If you see "coffee drips" in more than one location walk away and find another boat..

#16 Seacocks - Visually inspect the "balls" from outside with a flashlight and look for any signs of corrosion. If they have handles that turn like your hose spigot at home know that they will need to be replaced because they are gate valves. Real seacocks should have handles that turn only vertically to be in-line with the valve and horizontally to be in-line with the hull only. Turn the handles and visually make sure the balls are opening and closing from outside the boat and make sure they turn freely.

#17 Seacocks - Check for a UL Marine rated listing and dezinctifacation (coppery pinkish coloring)

#18 Seacock Backing Blocks - Poke these with the Awl. If they are soft they are wet and will need replacement. The Awl should not "sink in" under light pressure.

#19 Hoses - Visually inspect hoses, including exhaust hoses, for any signs of dry rot, cracking or reinforcement wire bleed or break through. If you see rust spots mid hose this is a good sign that the reinforcing wire is rusting inside the hose. Check for double hose clamps at all bellow water fittings. Also check to make sure there is no clear, un-reinforced hose that leads to any through hull fitting.

#20 Seacocks - Check for a UL Marine rated listing and dezinctifacation (coppery pinkish coloring).

#21 Engine - Check the oil and make sure it was recently changed and that it is clean and not black. An owner that puts a boat away, or lists one for sale, with dirty oil, is also an owner that does not maintain the vessel to a good standard!

#22 Engine - If you've checked everything else, and are a VERY SERIOUS BUYER, remove the engine/heat exchanger zinc and make sure there actually is one and that it is in good condition. DO NOT do this with the boat in the water and the seacock open and do not do this if you are tire kicking this vessel. Ideally this should be left to the surveyor but most don't do this!

#23 Engine - Using a clean white rag run it under the engine any where you can reach. If you find a drip record it in the notebook and jot down it's location. Turn the rag to a clean spot and continue. Many owners will spot clean an engine to hide oil leaks. The rag trick usually finds them.

#24 Engine - Wiggle the engine and visually inspect the motor mounts for dry rot or oil degradation. make sure the motor mounts are still working and not cracked.

#25 Engine /Fuel
If the boat is equipped with a fuel/water separator device such as a Racor. Use an empty Coke bottle to crack the petcock and drain off just a touch of fuel. If it is laden with sediment or all you get is water this is a bad sign. Do NOT drain the entire bowl just a quick crack of this petcock will show you what you need to know and won;t require the owner re-bleeding the engine. Be polite and clean up ANY fuel drips with the spray cleaner you brought. Even ONE drop is being impolite and rude diesel stinks!!!

#26 Winches - Rotate the winches and make sure they rotate freely and smoothly. Wiggle them side to side, especially if they are aluminum. There should be NO play in the drum. Any play in an aluminum winch is a good sign that the bearing mating surfaces are worn or corroded due to dissimilar metals corrosion. DO NOT overlook this, winches are big $$$$$$$!

#27 Blocks Sheaves - Make sure all blocks and sheaves rotate freely and are not frozen.

#28 Running Rigging -
Look for any signs of chafe and wear especially halyards. Scratch the surface of the line's jacket with your fingernail and if threads give way or break it is time for new running rigging.

#29 Portlights - Look for any visibly signs of leaking.

#30 Lifelines - Look for rust / corrosion at the fittings and between the white jacket of the wire and the swaged fitting.

Warning Signs:

If the boat owner doesn't want/allow you to do this... it may be that they are hiding something. A boat owner who is proud of how well kept and maintained his boat is should have no problem allowing you fairly complete access to the boat and its systems.

Walk the Docks

Once you've gone over the boat with a fine tooth comb... walk the docks and talk to the other marina residents. They can often give you a lot of information about the boat.

• Was it used regularly or was it a dock queen?
• Did the owner come out to check the lines and fenders before and after a storm?
• Did the owner have regular maintenance done to the boat?
• How long has it been for sale?

All this stuff can often be discovered just by being friendly and talking to other people at the boat's marina.

When you get home

Put everything aside for a day...and then come back and look at it... this gives your subconscious mind a chance to process what you've seen and things that you may have not realized on the initial trip may jump out at you.

If you get a hunch about some equipment or part on the boat, look at your photos and notes about them and see if you can figure out what your subconscious is trying to tell you.

Don't forget to do a bit of research on the various pieces of equipment you saw on the boat to find what specific problems are common to them.

What to do next:

If you really like what you saw and didn't come across any glaring warning signs, it is probably time to make the offer. When you make your offer, ask for maintenance records, and make the offer subject to survey and sea trial.

Remember, if you're married or have a significant other... GET THEIR INPUT. If you don't, you probably will regret it in the long run.

I hope this helps.

[gedaggett]

Great post. Should be the post of the month. This will be printed and kept in a binder that I keep together with research info, wish list and other important stuff I have gathered up in my search.

Thanks

Gary

[Pilot11]

Thanks SD. That is a great guide. Trying to keep all that in my head would be challenging to say to least!

Thanks a bunch, Paul

[sailingdog]

Glad to help guys.

[wench]

Great post - may I add a few more suggestions:

If the mast is keel stepped, look at the the base of the mast. Pull up the floorboards and look for corrosion, water intrusion (all masts have holes). A now defunct 51' builder made basically a humidor out of encasing the aluminum mast in interior wood between the deck and the keel in the cabin. Wasn't seen until the surveyor insisted the mast be pulled. A 14" problem!

If the mast is deck stepped, look for any concave depression around the step. It may or may not have a compression post to take the load off the deck, the support beam that spans the underside of the deck below may have rotted out and needs replacement. We saw one that the owner "built up on deck" and actually fiberglassed the trough to his mast and mast step in an effort to "strengthen" It.

There are a lot of fixer "uppers" out there. Unfortunately, when we tell them what their "steal of a boat" was - they are at their wits end.

Always take a new 3M green scratchie and a magnifying glass too!

[Hartley18]

Great post, SD - I had occasion to use it today.

One thing I'd add under "Specific Inspection Areas" - not a biggie, but something easily missed that may come back to bite later: Check that the cockpit can seat at least 4 people comfortably without them jammed up against each other or banging their knees together!

Many smaller crusing-style boats out there tend to maximise the cabin space at the cost of cockpit space.

[eherlihy]

At the risk of being redundant, here is a boat inspection list that I put together some time ago (last year). This is largely based on SD's post above. I have shared it with SD in another forum.

If this works for you, feel free to use it.

(BTW this is my 1st post here)

Boat Inspection
This is NOT a Survey. This type of trip is what you should do to see if it is worth making an offer on a boat and spending the money on a survey and sea trial.

Basic Inspection Kit
First, put together a kit of tools for your boat visit. The kit should include the
following:
• Small Notebook
• Pencil—preferably .5mm mechanical
• Small tape recorder—it is often easier to make notes by speaking than
writing when looking at a boat
• Digital camera - make sure that you can upload pictures to your computer.
• Tape Measure —25-30' tape
• Small Flashlight
• Pocket Multitool
• Phenolic Resin (plastic) Hammer — or, I use the handle of a screwdriver.
• Small Magnet — preferably one with a lanyard attachment
• Inspection Mirror—preferably one with a telescoping handle
• Small multimeter
• Binoculars – Use for visually inspecting the upper areas of the mast.
• Moisture Meter

Additional Supplies:
• Clean White Rags
• Awl – or #1 Phillips
• Waterless Hand Cleaner Wipes
• Spray Cleaner (like Fantastic)
• Burgundy Scotch Brite Pad

Overview

First Impressions
Take photos of the boat as you approach it...
Turn on the tape recorder and speak clearly about your first impressions of the boat.
Ask the broker/owner if the owner’s manual(s) and maintenance records are
available, and if you can review them. The review can happen at a later date, just be sure that the seller knows that you will want to review them.

Systematically go through the boat from bow to stern, from top to bottom,
recording what you find either on the tape recorder or as sketches and notes in the notebook, and document everything with photos using the digital camera if possible. If you have specific requirements, use the tape measure to take measurements. Lay down in the V, and any other berth to make sure that you fit. I will also lay down in the cockpit for the same reason.

Don't forget to note the make and model of the various equipment and parts
aboard the boat. Some pieces of equipment, like specific models of engines and such have known weaknesses and specific problems to be aware of.

Stainless Test
The magnet is to be used to check stainless steel hardware. If the magnet sticks, it ain't marine grade stainless. Austenitic stainless, which covers most marine grade stainless steel, is non-magnetic and includes 304 and 316 grades of stainless. The cheaper martensitic stainless is magnetic.

Deck Overview
Tapping the deck with the phenolic hammer (or screwdriver handle) near
stanchion bases may give you an indication if the deck has started to delaminate or has a wet core. Most boats have a cored deck and stanchions are often places where the water intrusion can start due to the loads that they're often subjected to. Caution: Be careful on an Awlgriped deck!!

Pay particular attention near the fasteners or deck area around the stanchions or other deck hardware, especially on older boats.
Look for cracks in the gelcoat—most spider cracks are normal and often due to the gelcoat being laid too thickly. Parallel cracks often indicates stressing of the fiberglass. Star-shaped cracks in the gelcoat are usually the result of an impact, or frozen wet core pushing up through the gelcoat.

Look for flat spots in the hull or places where the hull doesn't follow a natural
curve. These can often be indicators of previous damage or bad construction.
Often, places where the hull isn't following a fair curve are due to bulkheads
being improperly glassed to the hull and causing a hard spot—which can cause
the laminate to hinge along the hard spot and results in the laminate fatiguing
prematurely.

Mechanical Overview
Check mechanical systems to see if the parts that should move do, and that the parts that shouldn't move don't. If something sticks, like the tiller, and shouldn't— it is probably an indicator of something wrong or about to go wrong. Excessive play is often an indicator of wear and that something may need to be repaired or replaced soon. If a cabin door or cabinet door doesn't open or close smoothly, it may mean the hull and deck have changed shape and causing it to bind.

Electrical Overview
Look at the back of the breaker/Fuse Panel. Wiring should be labeled and neat.
Check for signs of corrosion. The multimeter can be used to check voltage,
voltage drop, and resistance in circuits through the electrical system.

Locker Overview
Go through the boat and open every locker if at all possible. Lift settee cushions.
Looking in lockers and such can often tell you a lot about a boat's true condition, since many people will spruce up and clean the interior of a boat for sale, but will often forget to do the same for the less visible spaces. A good example of what you may find are traces of a visible waterline in the higher lockers may indicate that the boat was sunk at some point.

Look in, and photograph, the bilge. The bilge should not be filled with anything. A little water is OK, but it will lead to musty smells. Look for oil in the bilge, as an indicator of an oil leak elsewhere on the boat. If there is fresh water in the bilge of a salt-water boat, then there is a leak in the freshwater tanks. Be careful about using the “taste-test,” the bilge is also where raw sewage may accumulate if there is a leak in the holding tank. Keel bolts should be made of stainless steel, and should not be rusty, or covered with crud.

Rigging
Get detailed photos of the mast step, chain plates, the rudder attachment points, the steering quadrant and other important pieces of equipment. Do not go aloft on a boat that you do not know and trust. Take photos of the rig, or examine it with binoculars from the ground. The amount of detail from a 8-10 MP image nowadays is astounding, even if the camera only has a fairly short focal length lens.

Specific Inspection Areas:

Outside the hull.
1. Sails & Canvas - If the sails are on board find the UV cover or luff end of
the head sail and scratch the threads with your fingernail. If they fail or
break the sails need at a minimum re-stitching. If you can find the head
board of the main sail, it sees lots of UV as it's not folded into the sail
when flaked do the same here. Do the same for any canvas.

2. Rigging - Chainplates should be aligned with the turnbuckles, stays, and
shrouds. Look for any signs of leaking around chainplates. Terminal
fittings (swage fittings, Sta-Lok, Norseman, etc.) should be free of cracks,
bends, and rust. Turnbuckle barrels should be secured to the threads,
either with rings, cotter pins, or by tightening locknuts. Is the standing
rigging free of broken strands of wire? Pay particular attention to welds on
the mast and boom, look for rust. Spreader ends should be protected,
either with tape or with a rubber boot. Problems with the forestay fittings
(cracks, bends, and rust) can be hidden by the roller furling gear.

3. Mast, Boom and Gooseneck - Is the mast straight, without being cocked
to either side or bowed in the middle? Look for dents, empty screwholes,
cracks and corrosion. Take photos of the rig from the ground. Are there
any signs of galvanic corrosion at the base of the mast or where dissimilar
metal fittings (winches, cleats, etc.) are attached to the mast? (On a
painted aluminum mast, corrosion is indicated by bubbles around the
fittings. On an unpainted mast, corrosion is indicated by heavy
concentrations of white powder (some powder is acceptable) and
pockmarks around fittings.) Are halyard fittings, especially the sheaves,
crushed, split, or badly worn?

4. Lifelines - Look for rust / corrosion at the fittings and between the white
jacket of the wire and the swaged fitting. Inspect fittings for cracks, bends,
or rust. Stainless Steel can corrode if deprived of oxygen. For this reason,
many boats do not have the white plastic cover over the lifelines. Check
the fittings, and look for meat hooks on uncovered lifelines.

5. Decks – Walk the decks, carefully checking for soft spots. Occasionally
stomp on a non-soft spot of the deck. Go below and look for rust / dust
under where you have stomped.

6. Decks – Get out the Moisture meter, and check the entire deck and coach
roof. For some boats, check the hull. Realize that the meter will read as
moisture if there is metal directly under the fiberglass. Note any moisture
readings above 20% on a diagram of the boat.

7. Winches - Rotate the winches and make sure they rotate freely and
smoothly. Wiggle them side-to-side, especially if they are aluminum. There
should be NO play in the drum. Any play in an aluminum winch is a good
sign that the bearing mating surfaces are worn or corroded due to
dissimilar metals corrosion. DO NOT overlook this, winches are big buck$!

8. Blocks Sheaves - Make sure all blocks and sheaves rotate freely and are
not frozen. Check the sheaves for damage/wear.

9. Running Rigging - Look for any signs of chafe and wear especially
halyards. Scratch the surface of the lines jacket with your fingernail and if
threads give way or break it is time for new running rigging.

10. Driveline - Grab the prop and wiggle it back and forth up and down. If
there is any play the cutlass bearing is mostly shot and will need
replacement.

11. Driveline - Inspect the strut, prop shaft (if bronze) and prop for any signs
of dezincification. This will appear as areas of discoloration more pinkish
or coppery in color as opposed to the gold hue of bronze. The Scotchbrite
pad will allow you to get down to bare bronze.

12. Rudder -Grab the rudder and move it from side to side and fore and aft. If
there is significant play the bearings or bushings may be past prime.

13. Rudder - Move the rudder by hand from full port to full starboard. If you
feel any difference in resistance it could be a bent shaft or steering gear
issues.

14. Rudder - Look for any rust colored drips emanating from the rudder. This
is a good sign of water intrusion.

15. Keel - Look for any signs of water seepage or discoloration stains along
the keel to hull joint. Leaking keel joints lead to crevice corrosion of the
keel bolts and can be a bad situation.

16. Seacocks - Visually inspect the "balls" from outside with a flashlight and
look for any signs of corrosion.

17. Steering - Inspect the entire steering gear assembly and look for excess
play or "meat hooks" on the steering cable. Make sure the wheel brake
works. A broken wheel brake, or one that does not have adequate locking
to prevent you from turning the rudder by hand, means the rudder was
allowed to move freely at the dock or mooring. This adds to unnecessary
premature wear and tear on the entire steering system.

Inside the Hull
18. Portlights - Look for any visible signs of leaking.

19. Doors – Doors and hatches should all open and close with out binding. If
a cabin door or cabinet door doesn't open or close smoothly, it may mean
the hull and deck have changed shape and causing it to bind. This can
often happen if a compression post has started to weaken. Binding can
also be a sign of a “racked,” or damaged hull. A Racked hull is not
symmetrical, and will not sail straight. Racking can be caused by major
accident or the vessel running aground.

20. Deck (Under-side) - Do your best to remove anything that will get you to
the backing plates of deck hardware. Visually inspect deck penetrations
for any signs of "coffee drips" which are signs of a deteriorating rotting
deck. If you see "coffee drips" in more than one location walk away and
find another boat.

21. Bulkheads - Using the Awl (please be courteous and do this in an
inconspicuous area that can not be seen) poke the areas around the chain
plates lightly. If the wood is rotten the Awl will sink in. Do the same around
the bottoms of the bulkheads where they meet the bilge.

22. Glassed in Bulkheads - Inspect all tabbing and make sure NONE of it is
peeling or broken free from either the hull or the bulkheads. Do your best
to look at the entire mating surface and this will usually require the
flashlight and inspection mirror. If you notice any discoloration of the wood
lightly poke at it with the Awl. Look for any signs of the teak veneer
bubbling or lifting. This is always a red flag for moisture in the bulkheads.

23. Screwed in Bulkheads - Many production boats used bulkheads that are
screwed in place. Make sure the screws are entering at a 90 degree angle
to the wood. Screw heads that are cocked or off the 90 degree angle, and
if there are more than just the occasional one, are a good indication the
bulkhead has been over stressed and has moved. PLEASE be polite
about your use of the Awl!

24. Steering - Inspect the rudder stuffing box. You are looking for signs of
drips or leaks. Usually they will run from the top of the rudder packing
gland down. Look for green streaks if the boat has a bronze rudder
packing gland.

25. Keel - Look in the bilge for any signs of un-sealed screw holes, possibly
left over from a float switch or bilge pump, with brownish rust stains
around them. This could mean the boat has a plywood laminated keel stub
that has been moisture saturated. If the stub has wood and it's wet the
keel bolts will likely be suffering from a good deal of crevice corrosion.

26. Keel - Look at the keel bolts and make sure they are no circular stress
cracks emanating outward from the backing plates. This is another sign of
a rotting and compressing keel stub. Solid fiberglass does not compress
enough to create circular stress cracks.

27. Seacocks - Visually inspect from inside looking for any signs of corrosion.
Verify that there are Ball Valves. Turn the handles and visually make sure
the balls are opening and closing from outside the boat and make sure
they turn freely.

28. Seacocks - Check for a UL Marine rated listing and dezincification
(coppery pinkish coloring)

29. Seacock Backing Blocks - Poke these with the Awl. If they are soft they
are wet and will need replacement. The Awl should not "sink in" under
light pressure.

30. Hoses - Visually inspect hoses, including exhaust hoses, for any signs of
dry rot, cracking or reinforcement wire bleed or break through. If you see
rust spots mid hose this is a good sign that the reinforcing wire is rusting
inside the hose. Check for double hose clamps at all bellow water fittings.
Also check to make sure there no clear, un-reinforced hoses lead to any
through hull fitting.

31. Engine - Check the oil and make sure it was recently changed and that it
is clean and not black. An owner that puts a boat away, or lists one for
sale, with dirty oil, is also an owner that does not maintain the vessel to a
good standard!

32. Engine - Using a clean white rag, run it under the engine anywhere you
can reach. If you find a drip record it in the notebook and jot down it's
location. Turn the rag to a clean spot and continue. Many owners will spot
clean an engine to hide oil leaks. The rag trick usually finds them.

33. Engine - Wiggle the engine and visually inspect the motor mounts for dry
rot or oil degradation. Make sure the motor mounts are still working and
not cracked.

34. Engine / Fuel - If the boat is equipped with a fuel/water separator device
such as a Racor. Use an empty Coke bottle to crack the petcock and drain
off just a touch of fuel. If it is laden with sediment or all you get is water
this is a bad sign. Do NOT drain the entire bowl just a quick crack of this
petcock will show you what you need to know and won’t require the owner
re-bleeding the engine. Be polite and clean up ANY fuel drip with the
spray cleaner you brought.

35. Engine - If you've checked everything else, and are a VERY SERIOUS
BUYER, remove the engine/heat exchanger zinc and make sure there
actually is one and that it is in good condition. DO NOT do this with the
boat in the water and the seacock open and do not do this if you are tire
kicking this vessel. Ideally this should be left to the surveyor but most don't
do this!

Walk the Docks
Once you've gone over the boat to your satisfaction... walk the docks and talk to the other marina residents. They can often give you a lot of information about the boat.
• Was it used regularly or was it a dock queen?
• Did the owner come out to check the lines and fenders before and after a
storm?
• Did the owner have regular maintenance done to the boat?
• How long has it been for sale?
• Has anyone else looked at buying this boat?
All this stuff can often be discovered just by being friendly and talking to
other people at the boat's marina.

When you get home
Put everything aside for a day...and then come back and look at it... this gives your subconscious mind a chance to process what you've seen and things that you may have not realized on the initial trip may jump out at you.
If you get a hunch about some equipment or part on the boat, look at your photos and notes about them and see if you can figure out what your subconscious is trying to tell you.

Don't forget to do a bit of research on the various pieces of equipment you saw on the boat to find what specific problems are common to them.

What to do next:
If you really like what you saw and didn't come across any glaring warning signs, you should follow up with the seller. Even if you decide not to proceed, it is still good form to follow up with the seller, thank them for their time and tell them that you are not interested.

In order to proceed, contact the seller, thank them for showing you the boat and tell them that you are interested in moving forward. Now is the time to ask for the opportunity to review the maintenance records and owner’s manual(s), as well as any other items that were not available for initial inspection. Many sellers have an older marine survey, and will be willing to share this with a serious buyer.

Once you have had a chance to review everything, and if the boat still checks out, you can proceed with an initial offer. Be clear that any offer is subject to successfully completing a professional marine survey, by a surveyor of your choice, and successful sea trial.

[eherlihy]

In addition to the above, this is a checklist that I have brought with me to inspect several boats;

Date: ______________ Location: _______________
Broker: __________________________________________________ _____
Year___________ Make_________________ Model______________
Draft____________
• Hull condition _____ Nicks, gouges, holes, blisters
__________________________________________________ __________
• Bottom Paint: (New / Smooth < > Old / Flaking off)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Rudder (Shake)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Prop (2 / 3 / 4 Blade) Fixed / Variable Pitch
__________________________________________________ __________
• Keel configuration (fin / wing / centerboard)
Condition_________________________________________ ___________
• Topsides: (Smooth / Clean < > Crazed / Dirty)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Deck: (Solid / no soft spots / good nonskid) - Test for Delam
__________________________________________________ __________
• Winches / Stoppers
__________________________________________________ __________
• Mast (Look for dents/screwholes/cracks/rust)
__________________________________________________ __________
Boom (Look for dents/screwholes/cracks/rust)
__________________________________________________ __________
Gooseneck (Look for play/wear/cracks/rust)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Stanchions and Lifelines (New < > Frayed Rusting)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Rigging – Bring a cotton rag (New < > Frayed Rusting)
__________________________________________________ _________
• Chainplates (Clean / Solid < > Rusting / Loose)
__________________________________________________ _________
• Sails
Main Year ___ Condition
Reefing / Furling / StakPak
Jib Year ___ Condition
Roller Furling Y / N
Spare Year ___ Size ___ Condition
• Dodger _____ Bimini______ (Custom < Semi Custom > Mail Order)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Traveller (Condition and ease of use)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Stomp on the deck. Go below and look for rust / dust under
__________________________________________________ __________
• Bilge: (Clean / Dry < > Gross / Wet)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Batteries: Age and Brand
__________________________________________________ __________
• Through Hulls: Material (Bronze / Stainless / Marelon / Brass / Flanged)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Ground Tackle: Size and type of Anchor and Chain
__________________________________________________ __________
• Holding Tank and Waste Plumbing: Condition? Discharge valve?
__________________________________________________ __________
• General condition of interior: (Clean / Dry < > Gross / Wet)
__________________________________________________ __________
• Woodwork condition:
__________________________________________________ __________
• Galley / Stove
__________________________________________________ __________
• Propane Locker (Solenoid condition / OPD Tank / Steel – Aluminum -
Fiberglass)_______________________________________ ____________
• Electronics
__________________________________________________ __________
__________________________________________________ __________
__________________________________________________ __________
__________________________________________________ __________
• engine and transmission oil, and the belts - look for a spare impeller
• interior plumbing for cracked / broken hoses
• interior of the lockers – remove drawers and look at the hull behind
__________________________________________________ __________
• Run your fingers around seals, in exposed areas where you know
moisture can be a problem
__________________________________________________ ___
__________________________________________________ _______________
__________________________________________________ _______________
__________________________________________________ _______________

[Giulietta]

I have had boats all my life and bought many and never ever had lists, checks or anything..made money in all of them and none sank

[eherlihy]

I have had boats all my life and bought many and never ever had lists, checks or anything..made money in all of them and none sank

I have seen pictures of your boat - you are a lucky, and fortunate, man!

However, for those of us that have not had boats all our lives, and have to live within a finite budget, (and analyze everything to death ) having a checklist should help rationalize the major cash outlay...

It is a means of quantifying and comparing the features and condition of different boats, so that we can one day hit ourselves in the head and say; "how did I miss that?!"

[Giulietta]

I have seen pictures of your boat - you are a lucky, and fortunate, man!

However, for those of us that have not had boats all our lives, and have to live within a finite budget, (and analyze everything to death ) having a checklist should help rationalize the major cash outlay...

It is a means of quantifying and comparing the features and condition of different boats, so that we can one day hit ourselves in the head and say; "how did I miss that?!"

eherlihy, sorry for the confusion.

Nice list and I am sure it will help the folks looking for a new boat. Thanks

Thanks for your input and effort, much appreciated.

actually, finance and money was not the point of what I said..or why I said it..
most of my life I had boats on very small budgets, and many were really crappy. I had a Vaurien that the first 3 hours of sailing were just pumping water out.

We used to sink that boat in the beginning of the season, so the wood expanded and closed the water leaks...

my teenage years I didn't have money to buy stuff, so I sold lemons and stuff in fairs to make money to even get the gas to trailer our boats to the races...the clubs had no money for it..

The reason why I meant what I wrote, is I always went there, I looked, saw, compared and knew at what I was looking for and either get or not...and knew what to look for..all done by eye and gut feeling...something are so obvious...by the way.

Sorry again for the confusion..

Alex

[chicagosailer]

Saltydog,

thanks for this very valuable posting; it came very much in handy. i purchased the moisture meter and got to try it out on my top potential boat -- a J29 located in Massachusetts. i live in chicago but my family is back in Massachusetts so i combined a family trip with a boat viewing. the boat was great in a lot of ways but had too much moisture around one of the stanchions to the trailer, i thought, to make the 1000 mile trip back to chicago. i walked away from the purchase.

again, thank you. the moisture meter worked well. i also used the paperwork survey. it impressed even the person from Mass Maritime in charge of selling their boats. i sent him the link so he could purchase a moisture meter -- it's something everyone should have. i used it on my current boat and was pleased with the lack of moisture in the hull. all smiles ...

[sailingdog]

Glad to help... I love hearing stories like this, since this was the reason I wrote the post in the first place.

Saltydog,

thanks for this very valuable posting; it came very much in handy. i purchased the moisture meter and got to try it out on my top potential boat -- a J29 located in Massachusetts. i live in chicago but my family is back in Massachusetts so i combined a family trip with a boat viewing. the boat was great in a lot of ways but had too much moisture around one of the stanchions to the trailer, i thought, to make the 1000 mile trip back to chicago. i walked away from the purchase.

again, thank you. the moisture meter worked well. i also used the paperwork survey. it impressed even the person from Mass Maritime in charge of selling their boats. i sent him the link so he could purchase a moisture meter -- it's something everyone should have. i used it on my current boat and was pleased with the lack of moisture in the hull. all smiles ...

[Popeye.Tom]

Thanks SD & Eherlihy,

Great lists and thoughts.

I wanted to add a bit on the tapping, this is just about my favorite method of inspecting decks, transoms, engine bed stingers... When tapping, you are listening for changes in the tone of the sound. Tap around an area of interest, back and forth, listening for the tone or note of the tapping to change. De-laminated and wet/rotten core areas will sound dull when compared to other areas. I think that the tapper is a most indispensable tool and is useful for wooden boats as well as FG. Rotten/soft/electrolysis damaged planks sound dead when tapped, just as wet/rotten cored FG - You know, the same, but different! On wooden boats, pay special attention around thru hulls and any place that metal goes through the hull, these are often the site of electrolysis damage and that can be extensive and somewhat hidden.

Also, take care with the moisture meter - I know of a boat owner who got dumped, temporarily, by her insurance when a less than astute surveyor said the bases under her winches were rotten. Turns out that the boat had aluminum plates under the winches, but the owner didn't know this. When the repair was started, the mistake was discovered reasonably early, it still cost her some Wednesday sails with the girls and stress when she thought she was in for an unplanned structural repair bill! (Tapping would have likely told the surveyor that there was more to this than the moisture meter showed!)

PT

[sailingdog]

Stupidity and misuse of a moisture meter is avoidable. I'd recommend anyone wanting to know more about the EP CT33 moisture meter read Maine Sail's page on it.

Thanks SD & Eherlihy,

Great lists and thoughts.

I wanted to add a bit on the tapping, this is just about my favorite method of inspecting decks, transoms, engine bed stingers... When tapping, you are listening for changes in the tone of the sound. Tap around an area of interest, back and forth, listening for the tone or note of the tapping to change. De-laminated and wet/rotten core areas will sound dull when compared to other areas. I think that the tapper is a most indispensable tool and is useful for wooden boats as well as FG. Rotten/soft/electrolysis damaged planks sound dead when tapped, just as wet/rotten cored FG - You know, the same, but different! On wooden boats, pay special attention around thru hulls and any place that metal goes through the hull, these are often the site of electrolysis damage and that can be extensive and somewhat hidden.

Also, take care with the moisture meter - I know of a boat owner who got dumped, temporarily, by her insurance when a less than astute surveyor said the bases under her winches were rotten. Turns out that the boat had aluminum plates under the winches, but the owner didn't know this. When the repair was started, the mistake was discovered reasonably early, it still cost her some Wednesday sails with the girls and stress when she thought she was in for an unplanned structural repair bill! (Tapping would have likely told the surveyor that there was more to this than the moisture meter showed!)

PT